Saturday, April 30, 2016

Dafter, Michigan

Soo Line Railroad crossing at Highway M-28
2,184 miles

Apr 30 – I find myself at the railroad crossing for the Soo Line railway.  All across the U.P., I’ve been seeing references to this railway line, so I think this crossing is telling me that it’s time to take a look at it. 

I had guessed that this railroad was named by a phonetic spelling for the Sioux Indians who lived around the western end of this railroad system in northern Minnesota & North Dakota.  (“Sioux” is a French spelling, pronounced “soo”.)  But as I virtually travelled toward Sault St. Marie and learned that “sault” is an Old French word for river rapids, I began to suspect that Soo was, instead, a phonetic spelling for that term.  And that is the derivation that my research sources offered.

Although it was officially named the Minneapolis, St. Paul and Sault Ste. Marie Railroad (MStP&SSM) – quite a mouthful! – it was commonly known as the Soo Line. 

The Soo Line was the primary United States railroad subsidiary of the monumental Canadian Pacific Railway (CP).  Through corporate mergers & re-branding, the Soo Line was subsumed under the Canadian Pacific Railway.  Most Soo Line locomotives have been repainted into CP or scrapped.  They still hold a lot of nostalgic significance for those who remember its glory days.



info: Wikipedia.com

images: Google Images

Friday, April 29, 2016

Western Brimley, Michigan

2,170 miles

Apr 29 - Again, at my 14-mile stopping place I see lots of roadway with trees on either side.  I’m stymied in my search for local interest.  I see a few daisies at the side of the road … a dirt road or two leading into the woods … But then I hear rumors of the existence of the Delirium Swamp.  It’s too far off my route to bike there, but I had to investigate virtually. 

Sylvester "Pond"
The Delirium Wilderness is an area within the Hiawatha National Forest, sculpted long ago by glaciers and now a collection of marshland, bogs, and mire.  It contains Sylvester Pond and Delirium Pond, as well as the headwaters of the Pine and Waiska Rivers.  In its drier areas red and jack pine grow, but most of it is swamp, growing aspen trees, white cedar, and swamp conifer. 
Wetland wildlife includes beaver, otter, duck, loon, great blue heron, and sandhill crane. Whitetail deer, bobcat, and black bear are also found in the area.

Apparently, this wilderness is almost inaccessible, even though I found the one photo of one so-called “pond”.  This sign says “Foot travel welcome. Closed to all public motor vehicle use.”  But it appears that foot travel is also rare.  The legends speak of swarms of aggressive, hungry lacy-winged biting flies and mosquitoes. 

Which brings up that aforementioned “delirium”.    Delirium is a temporary dementia characterized by restlessness, excitement, delusions, and/or hallucinations.  It can be caused by falling in love, of course, but it is often associated with infectious fevers, particularly malaria & swamp fever.  Sufficient reason in my mind to avoid the place like a quagmire!

In gazing at Google maps to find something interesting along the roadway, I came across this mysterious compound.  It does not appear at all on Google Maps or Street View, only on Earth View.  I find it very intriguing.  An obscure sports arena?  An alien landing site?  It looks rather like a particle accelerator super-collider. 
Tevatron super-collider at FermiLab
With graceful tendrils wafting to the side… Clearly visible, but unexplained.  Thought-provoking. 



Delirium Wilderness info & image:  http://www.ababsurdo.com/archives/date/2006/07

Thursday, April 28, 2016

Apr 28 – Hattie, School, & Rutland Fires

Hattie Blakely
After Hattie left Rutland High School in November of 1867, what were her plans for the future?  How did the news of the Rutland fires of 1868 affect her?
It appears that the family’s original plan was to send Hattie to Rutland for one term of advanced melodeon lessons.  Since she qualified for only the preparatory level of high school classes, but she performed passably, she might have benefitted from continuing there.  Why not?  Was this considered to be sufficient education for her abilities & ambitions?  Was Hattie too homesick?  Was there a sudden financial hardship for the family?  We have no evidence of that.  Was her mother ill and needing her help at home?  This was often a reason for girls to discontinue their schooling.  It was, in fact, the reason that her niece Winifred H. Blakely went to several different colleges for a term or two, and then returned home because her father was ailing.  Had she gotten too friendly with a young man?  The letters do not even hint at anything like this.  Were Uncle Marshall & Aunt Mary unable or unwilling to have her living with them any longer?  In the end, it does not seem that Hattie or the family felt that there was any urgency about continuing Hattie’s schooling at this point, not even the music lessons.

Nickwackett Fire Station,
by Donna Wilkins
As interesting as Rutland city life had been for Hattie, her parents were probably relieved to have her home after the year of fires began.  The April and December fires were right in the neighborhood of the high school, the music teacher, & Uncle Marshall’s home.  The Rutland Herald was filled with harrowing details about each fire and the suspicions of arson.  In April, 3 city blocks burned down, just next to where Hattie had been.   It’s quite likely that the home of Mrs. Brown, who let Hattie practice on her melodeon, was among those destroyed.  

When the arsonists were caught in December, and it became known that they set the fires to create a distraction to help the notorious criminal escape from jail, the real evil behind those fires was revealed.  Hattie & her classmates had been on the street during the October 1867 jailhouse fire, had seen the prisoners led away from the jail, and had heard rumors about O.B. Clark’s defiance after being rescued from his “dungeon” by heroic firefighters.  Had that jailhouse fire, too, been set in order to free Clark?  This was too much danger, evil, & excitement for a young lady to endure. 


Fort Edward Collegiate Institute
After Hattie returned home, she did not write more letters, diaries, or documents that tell us more about her life.  A few years later, she was studying at Fort Edward Collegiate Institute in New York when she received a letter from a Pawlet friend, Louise, who envied Hattie’s opportunity to be there, not tied down with housework & children.  

In the spring of 1874, Emma Quick wrote a letter to Hattie in Pawlet from “Mrs. Bryan’s Seminary” in Batavia, N.Y.  in which she mentions that Hattie had been teaching school in Pawlet three years before that.  Emma Quick was herself a teacher in Pawlet, in Batavia, and later in Warsaw, New York, at Clare Place Seminary, another “boarding and day school for young ladies.”   

So, it appears that Hattie did use her schooling and continued it, and taught school for a time as well.  The rest of her life story will be included in the larger saga told in the Blakely family letters.

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Strongs Corner, Michigan

2,156 miles        

Apr 27 - Riding along highway, approaching the “populated place” of Strongs Corner, I find the Strongs General Store.  

Strongs Tavern & Gas
       


At the crossroads of highway M-28 & South Strongs Road is Strongs Tavern & Gas & Groceries, next to Strongs Motel.  (Across the highway is the Lumberjack Tavern.)
 
Strongs Motel -- & Tavern & Groceries?
I can’t find any information online about how this name was given to the place.  Since it appears that the tavern & motel for hunters is the core of the activities at this crossroad, I would guess that someone named Strong started selling liquor here, and a little community grew around that.

The place that entices me in is Roxane’s Diner.  The outside is plain & utilitarian, but don’t be fooled.  

Inside, the décor imitates a 1950s soda shop, with an emphasis on Coca-Cola.  (My research is inconclusive about whether it is called “soda” or “pop” or “soda pop” on the U.P.)  

smoked brisket omelet
The menu focuses on smoked meats & traditional Southern barbeque side dishes.  And pizza.  In fact, the atmosphere is not very Yooper except for the meatiness.  And catering to people who are on their way to somewhere else.  No pasties here.  Breakfast is served all day.


images: Google Street Views
diner:  http://www.yelp.com/biz/roxanes-m-28-diner-eckerman 


Tuesday, April 26, 2016

E. Newberry, Michigan

2,142 miles
M-28 east of Newberry

This road is looking as straight & flat & featureless as the Seney Stretch.  So I decided to find out more about the highway itself.  Michigan Route 28 (M-28) extends across the length of the Upper Peninsula, passing through forested woodlands, bog swamps, towns, & along the Lake Superior shoreline.  The roadway goes through the Ottawa National Forest and both units of the Hiawatha National Forest, and crosses several historic bridges.  Its main purpose appears to be truck transportation of goods from cities at one of the peninsula to cities at the other end.  The people who live here have been trying to use it to bring paying visitors to the “attractions” they have created. 
M-28 is an original trunkline designation, dating to the 1919 formation of the state's trunkline system. The original highway started in the western part of the Upper Peninsula and was expanded eastward to the Sault Ste. Marie area in the late 1920s.  Other changes along the routing have led to the creation of three different business loops at various times, but only one still exists, around Marquette. The Marquette County Road Commission has proposed a re-route of M-28 even farther away from Marquette, but the state commission has not accepted this idea.  Apparently, the through-traffic of trucks should be kept far out of town.

Old Flowing Well rest area
Along M-28, the Michigan Department of Transportation has established several roadside parks and rest areas, some of which I’ve visited (virtually).  The first was in Ontonagon County at Trout Creek.  I didn’t know yet that it was part of a system of roadside parks.  In Baraga County, I saw a park with a picnic area and a footbridge across Tioga Creek, with a view of a charming small waterfall.   In Three Lakes County, I passed by a scenic turnout and a roadside park overlook at Lake Michigamme.  In Au Train, I virtually visited the roadside park that includes Scott Falls.  I missed a few more around McMillan west of Newberry, but I am delighted by this idea.  Scenic public rest areas are a wonderful feature to welcome visitors along a through-route.


In Soo Junction, just a couple of miles off the highway, is a tourist business using an old narrow 24-inch gauge mining trolley & tracks to provide scenic tours.  Ride the train 5½ miles through the habitat of bear, deer, and birds to a private boat landing on the Tahquamenon River.  
Board an old riverboat that takes passengers on a 21-mile cruise along the river to the rapids a half-mile above the Upper Tahquamenon Falls.  During the cruise, enjoy a sandwich or beverage from the on-board cafeteria, then take a nature hike (5/8 mile) through the forest to view the waterfall.  
Tahquamenon Falls from trail above

Passengers then board the boat for the return trip to the train and the ride back to Soo Junction.  Quite a day’s trip!  It claims to be the only tour to the falls, despite the one offered from McMillan by dogsled.


highway image:  Google Street Views
info:  Wikipedia.com

Monday, April 25, 2016

Apr 25 - Rutland Arsonists of 1868

In 1868, Rutland was devastated by a series of major fires, one almost every week.  Many of Rutland's prominent buildings were destroyed, some by accident and others by arson.  During that year, “incendiaries” kept everyone wondering where they would strike next. 

In December,  Rutland's first Town Hall burned, west of the corner of Main and Washington Streets, as well as a few barns.  J.S. Hunt & Co., an insurance company in Boston, hired George W. Whipple, a detective from New York, to investigate the “incendiaries”.  As he later testified in criminal court, he spent some time “canvassing the town; I mean by that, that I looked up the habits and customs of the lowest class of the people.”  He befriended Pete Neary, and found out that he had access to the jail and wanted to free his friend, the infamous forger O.B. Clark, alias Edward L. Piper.  (Remember him from the earlier post?  “Rutland Jailhouse Fire 1867”)  But Neary was reluctant to help Clark escape while Mr. Briggs served as jailer, since he was also friends with the jailer.

Pete Neary went about town, or at least among “the lowest class of the people”, trying to recruit assistant arsonists.  He told friends that he had been offered $3,000 for a job “to burn some buildings”, and was offering each of his helpers $500.  The men supposed that Neary wanted to get O.B. Clark out of jail, and that Clark would pay them for enabling him to escape.  These men were urged by wives and girlfriends to do the job and get the good payoff.

Watchmen had been set to guard the town, so Neary planned to burn some barns nearby and across Main Street to distract them.  He was smart enough to avoid the barn of Leeds Billings, because he kept large dogs.  A couple of men climbed into the hayloft of each barn to set hay on fire, and left the doors barred against firefighters.  Then they went to set the important buildings on fire, extract the prisoner, and earn their reward.  They failed, however, to get O.B. Clark out of jail. 

After these fires, 6 conspirators were arraigned: Pete Neary, Bill & Jim Butterfly, Tom & Mary Dushan, & Martin Duffy.  Another detective, George W. Chapman, arrived from Boston to help Whipple with the investigation.  The forger O.B. Clark was moved elsewhere.

Perhaps these harum-scarum accomplices are the reason that a mere forger was considered to be such a dangerous criminal.
Rutland Jailhouse

By this time, Duffy was ready to help the police convict Pete Neary and two accomplices, Bill Butterfly & Tom Dushan.   Neary, Butterfly, & Dushan were put in the lower dungeon of the jailhouse, and Martin Duffy, and the two detectives, Whipple & Chapman, were above them in the marble-walled cell that O.B. Clark had formerly occupied.  

By calling through the hole in the floor next to the stovepipe, a conversation could be held between these cells.  As described in court testimony, Duffy rapped on the stove pipe, and said, “Is that you Bill?”  The reply was “yes”.  Butterfly asked, “Is that you Duffy?”, and he said “yes”.  Butterfly was suspicious about this being a set-up by police or detectives.  He asked Duffy, “Are you alone?” and Duffy said “yes”.  Butterfly then asked, "Have you said anything to expose us about the fires?"  Duffy said "no," so Butterfly said, "All right, keep mum, and we shall be all right."

Pete Neary and Bill Butterfly were convicted of arson, and sentenced to 10 years in state prison.  Martin Duffy was found guilty but not convicted.  The final disposition of Martin Duffy's case was guilty but "nolle prosequi", which means literally "do not prosecute".  It describes a prosecutor's decision to discontinue criminal charges before a verdict is rendered.

The new Killington Steamer that had been purchased that October was said to have paid for itself in fighting the Town Hall fire in December.  The destruction could have been much worse.




Sunday, April 24, 2016

Twin Lake(s), Michigan

Twin Lake(s)
2,128 miles

Apr 24 – Is it one lake or two?  Name-givers & cartographers can’t decide.  The lake consists of two basins, the smaller east basin being relatively shallow, and the larger west basin having depths up to 75 feet.  There are already multiple twin lakes in Wisconsin and Michigan, including a town named Twin Lake on the lower mainland of Michigan which seems to include 5 similarly-sized lakes.

Teaspoon Creek, by Gina Harman
The water is clear to slightly green brown.   The immediate shoreline of this twinned water hole is mostly rolling hills, with sand, gravel, and clay soils.  It’s surrounded by tag alder, cedar and spruce trees.  There is one inlet, a small creek on the west side, and many springs which contribute water to the lake.  The outflow goes into Teaspoon Creek (love that name!), eventually leading to the Tahquamenon River and Lake Superior.
New word for me: bathymetry: measuring the underwater depth of a lake or ocean, like the topography of landforms.  The bathymetry of Twin Lake was mapped in 1953.

The primary use of these twin lakes seems to be sport fishing.  Early fish surveys indicated a population in Twin Lake consisting of rock bass, bluegill, white suckers, largemouth bass, northern pike, golden shiners, and other minnows. Bluegill were stocked as early as 1938.  A public access site was developed in 1967.  It includes a parking lot & a boat ramp.

A 1968 survey indicated that the depth & oxygen profile was suitable to support trout.  Fisheries managers decided to provide a "two story fishery" by managing for trout in the deep western basin, and for a largemouth bass & panfish fishery in the shallower areas and the eastern basin.  Here’s another new word!  Panfish refers to smaller food fish, generally pan-fried.  Rainbow trout and brown trout were added, and later surveys showed good growth and survival.

brown bullhead
However, by 1980 rough fish (brown bullhead and white sucker, edible but not generally wanted for food or sport) and abundant small yellow perch were becoming a problem, and Fisheries Department personnel “conducted manual removals” of rough fish.  I wonder what that looked like.  Did they net them & throw back the bycatch of other species unharmed?  What happened to the culled fish?  Were they thrown away, turned into fertilizer, or did they feed the hungry?
splake

Following these removals, the Fisheries Division began stocking splake annually.  Splake are a hybrid fish, the product of mating between male brook trout and female lake trout.  Who knew that such things were going on?  Amazing.

largemouth bass
But for some reason, the largemouth bass that have been stocked in this lake have not been growing normally.  They can live up to 16 years and grow up to a maximum of 30 inches.  In this Twin Lake, largemouth bass have been growing to 12 inches, but not much beyond.  The legal minimum length for catching & keeping one is 18 inches.  The Fisheries Division biologists believe that “there was excessive harvest of sub-legal largemouth bass.”  Another new word: sub-legal.  Of course, poaching is illegal.  But the fish that are a legal species to catch but too small to keep are a sub-legal size.  Too many anglers are catching & keeping young fish.

majestic Christmas trees
at Anderson's Twin Lakes Tree Farm
Nearby is Anderson's Twin Lakes Tree Farm, where people can roam 48 acres to choose & cut their own Christmas trees.   The trees include Scotch Pine, Blue Spruce, White Spruce, White Pine, Douglas Fir, Balsam Fir and Canaan Fir.  For an additional fee, customers can also have their chosen trees hauled from the field, shaken (why?), baled, & bagged.  There is selection of pre-cut trees and extra tall trees starting at 9 feet.  To entertain visitors, the tree farm displays a lighted Santa, animated soldiers, & Santa Express.


Teaspoon Creek image by Gina Harman:  http://www.velvetgreencreations.com/Wildlife/teaspoon.html

Saturday, April 23, 2016

McMillan, Michigan

2,114 miles

Apr 23 – Riding (virtually) around the town of McMillan, I see a long- abandoned school, a bar, 3 churches, some comfortable houses, and this building which claims to be a restaurant that serves famous cinnamon rolls. 
My mouth waters just thinking about a warm cinnamon roll!  But nowhere on the web could I see any reference to the place or its yummy fame.  Drat.  I can’t even sample a virtual treat.

Outside of town, I made a marvelous discovery!  Nature's Kennel Sled Dog Racing & Adventures is a tourist business operated by a couple of experienced dogsled mushers.  They offer winter adventures for children and adults who want to try riding a dogsled or driving their own dog team.  Guides are experienced in mushing, customer service, and dog care.

In collaboration with Chamberlin's Old Forest Inn in nearby Curtis, they offer a luxurious Eat, Sleep and Ride packages for people who want to enjoy comfortable lodging & fine dining combined with a full or half-day dog sled adventure. 

On their Beginner Overnight Adventure, guests will learn to drive and care for their own dog team and spend a night in a heated winter tent.

This year, Nature’s Kennel introduced a Winter Photography Workshop and Dog Sledding Adventure.  What a great combination of experiences!  The adventure includes lodging at Chamberlin’s Old Forest Inn, a half-day of learning to drive a dog team, snow shoeing at Tahquamenon Falls State Park, a guided trip to the ice caves in Munising, and personalized photography instruction throughout the entire trip from award-winning U.P. nature photographer, Shawn Malone.  Shawn helps guests develop their photography skills in many different environments, from the fast action of sled dogs to the serene nature of Tahquamenon Falls and the majestic frozen waterfalls & ice caves in the Pictured Rocks area of Lake Superior.  Weather permitting, the excursion also includes night sky photography instruction.

autumn training for sled dogs
The owners of Nature’s Kennel are proud to say that all of their 160 sled dogs are part of their family.  They have won numerous “humanitarian” awards in races for their outstanding dog care.  (Apparently, working the dogs strenuously & not caring for them adequately has been a problem in the mushing community, so awarding these “humanitarian awards” has focused attention on the issue in a positive way.)  Their dogs are well known not only for their excellent race history and pedigrees, but also for their outstanding personalities.  All of their dogs are extremely well socialized and get to visit with hundreds of adults and children each year.

Each winter, Nature's Kennel employs guides from around the world who help train the dogs, lead sled dog tours, and provide individualized attention to the dogs on their assigned teams. 

Friday, April 22, 2016

Apr 22 – Rutland Fires of 1868

In 1868, Rutland was devastated by a series of neighborhood fires, one almost every week.  Many of Rutland's prominent buildings were destroyed, some by accident and others by arson.  Newspaper reports in The Rutland Herald examined in detail what merchandise was saved, what was destroyed, and which insurance companies were responsible for each merchant's claims.  How much of this destruction was caused by arsonists hired by merchants in order to collect insurance money?  Insurance companies hired detectives to investigate.
 
January:  Two major fires burned sections in Merchants Row, including the Cramton Block. 

March:  A committee of the water commission recommended that the town try (again) to improve its water system. New waterworks were to be constructed at a cost of $20,000.

April:  A lantern exploded in the Franklin Hotel adjacent to the Courthouse, setting off an inferno that consumed several buildings including the Courthouse, the hotel, and 3 blocks of South Main Street.  Fortunately, no lives were lost and all court records were saved.  The path of this fire included the neighborhood of the Rutland High School, the County Jailhouse, & the music teacher Miss Barrett’s house.  
South Main Street Park
This fire was so destructive that the 3-block stretch was not rebuilt, but instead was turned into a city park, as seen on this 1869 map.  The neighborhood residences of citizens before the fires must be guessed at from the post-fire 1869 map & city directory, the 1860 & 1870 censuses, and 1865-6 tax records.

June:  A bakery at the corner of Washington Street and Strongs Avenue burned.

July:  The Cramton Block, destroyed in January and newly rebuilt, was destroyed again, along with 8 other buildings on Merchants Row.


lead water pipes
Firefighting Water

Rutland had always struggled with an inadequate supply of water, and every city fire created a new water shortage crisis.  Water was piped into the city by the Rutland Aqueduct Company through an aqueduct from a spring in the town of Mendon.  About five miles of pipe were laid in 1858, and the open wooden aqueduct was replaced with cast iron pipe.  Over the next 5 years, the pipes were extended, but with the very rapid growth of the village at that time, the new supply soon failed to meet public necessities. The great fires of 1868 also showed a lack of sufficient facilities for such emergencies.

steam-powered fire engine

October:  Because of this series of destructive fires, the water commission, at its annual meeting, approved the erection of new waterworks at a cost of about $20,000, and the issue of bonds for that amount.  The Killington Steamer Company was formed and a new steam-powered fire engine was purchased for the city.  This was the first steamer bought in the State of Vermont.

December: A conspiracy was devised to commit several distracting arsons and help a notorious prisoner escape from the county jail.  (See my next historical post.)