Thursday, April 21, 2016

Seney, Michigan

2,100 miles

Seney Stretch
Apr 21 – The land between Shingleton & Seney is the spring-fed Great Manistique Swamp, dotted with jack pine trees, which resisted human efforts to drain it for farmland. The road across the swamp was constructed in the 1920s parallel to the line of the Duluth, South Shore and Atlantic Railway (later the Soo Line Railroad).  With no hills to contour around, this road was made as straight as an arrow between the railroad town of Shingleton and the lumber town of Seney.  This road is "one of the longest stretches of curveless highway east of the Mississippi."  Its perfect straightness and flatness over a 30-mile stretch have given the Seney Stretch a reputation for being "Michigan's most boring route".  Some have joked that it feels more like 50 miles long, and claim that a driver could set the car on autopilot & just take in the scenery.  For driver safety, in 1999 the state added passing relief lanes and a full-scale, year-round rest area.

Seney lumberjacks
Much of the town of Seney was built up on 6 foot cedar posts because of the swampy land and the depth of the snow.  Logging was conducted during the winter as it was easier to move the logs on sleds or with big wheels because of the deep snow. The sleds and big wheels were pulled by oxen, mules, or horses.  The logs were moved to the Fox River and piled up until the spring thaw and then they traveled down the river to Manistique where they were sent to the saw-mills. Much of this wood was used to build homes in the Midwest. Some wood was also hauled to Grand Marais and sent to England. This boom lasted for about 15 years.

The quiet little village of Seney quickly became a roaring lumber town of 3,000 and a raucous den of drink, gambling, and prostitution.  There were about 21 saloons, 10 hotels, a church, drug stores, meat markets, general merchandise stores, a jewelry store, other businesses, and several hundred houses.  During this boom time, Seney was plagued by fires, and once the pines were logged off, the loggers and shopkeepers soon went on to new camps. There were two major forest fires, in 1891 and 1895, but Seney never totally burned to the ground.

Strangmoor Bog
Part of the Seney Stretch forms the northern border of the Seney National Wildlife Refuge.  Established in 1935, this refuge is a managed wetland.  It has an area of 95,212 acres where sandhill cranes, gray wolves, black-throated blue warblers, and many other species make their home.  The wildlife refuge also contains the Strangmoor Bog National Natural Landmark within its boundaries.  Strangmoor Bog is one of the most southern, undisturbed patterned or stringed bogs in the country as a result of the underlying arrangement of sand knolls or extinct dunes on a sloping sand plain.  The National Park Service warns that “National Natural Landmarks are not national parks, and many sites are not open for visitation.”

The former boom town has become a tiny village, trying to preserve it history for visitors.  The Seney Museum and Historic Railroad Station gives visitors a hint of the 19th Century lumberjacking days. One room is devoted to the tools of the lumber trade — peavees, cant hooks, two-man crosscut saws, axes and the caulked boots of the men who rode the logs to the mill. Some natural history of the Seney area is preserved in stuffed owls and a stuffed beaver.   With Seney’s past reputation for whiskey and prostitutes, it is no surprise that the town had two jail cells that are now part of the museum. There are photographs of the Grondin Hotel and some of the saloon women.  

Ernest Hemingway, 1918
After returning from World War I, young Ernest Hemingway arrived at this train station and fished in the Fox River for brook trout.  He boasted that he had caught 200 trout in the nearby streams, and he wrote about it in his short story "Big Two-Hearted River".   The museum has a room devoted to Hemingway, and the wooden boat he used when he was fishing in the area.

sandhill crane in Seney Wildlife Refuge
The railroad station is as it was, although it has been moved across the street from where it was.  The Seney museum was created by local volunteers, and town’s dwindling population can’t support enough volunteers to keep regular hours.  It rarely draws as many as 25 visitors a year.  Visits are by appointment only.


info:  Wikipedia.com

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